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A salt water fish tank is an aquarium that mimics an ocean environment to support salt water fish verses freshwater fish.

Salt water fish tanks are considered more difficult to keep than freshwater tanks because salt water fish have less tolerance for fluctuations that can occur quickly within the closed environment of an aquarium.

Aquariums, when setup properly, operate as self-supporting ecosystems. In an ecosystem, artificially created or natural, every element relies on every other element for its stability. The art of fishkeeping becomes a balancing act of monitoring and maintaining specific parameters in order to keep the entire system stable. This is especially critical in a salt water fish tank because the ocean is an surprisingly stable environment. Life forms that evolved in the ocean do not have the physical ability to adjust quickly to radically changing conditions. Any changes that occur in the ocean occur slowly. For example, a quick drop or rise in the temperature of a salt water tank can cause salt water fish to take ill, even if the fluctuation is relatively small.

Aside from temperature there are many other factors to consider in a salt water fish tank. When the ecosystem is functioning properly, they should all take care of themselves, but they must be monitored. A typical reading for some of these parameters might be:

pH: 8.2

Nitrates: < 20ppm for salt water fish and < 5ppm for invertebrates

Salinity/specific gravity measured at 77F (25C) with a corrected
hydrometer: 1.022

Temperature: 77F (25C)

Alkalinity: 3.0

Calcium for reef keepers and invertebrates: 400-450ppm Ca++

Though keeping a salt water fish tank may sound daunting, it is a rewarding experience to recreate the ocean environment in your home. If new to fishkeeping, starting out with a freshwater tank might be a good idea. Freshwater fish come from smaller bodies of water and therefore can tolerate mistakes slightly better than their salt water relatives. Once you have the experience of basic fishkeeping under your belt, moving to a salt water fish tank is a natural next step. Note that freshwater and salt water fish cannot be kept together. Freshwater fish will die in salt water, and salt water fish will die in freshwater.

If considering a salt water fish tank bear in mind that the bigger the tank, the easier it is to keep the ecosystem stable. If a heater should fail, for example, it will take longer for the temperature to begin to drop in a larger tank and it will drop slower, relatively speaking, than in a smaller tank. This principle is true of every water parameter. The larger the tank, the more forgiving.

Another good reason to consider tanks of greater capacity is that salt water tanks support 50% fewer fish than their freshwater counterparts. A 30 gallon (114 liter) salt water tank is fully stocked with just a few small fish.

For those who take the plunge into one of the most popular hobbies in the world, you’ll find many resources to help you along the way. With a desire to invest the necessary interest and time, you are bound to reap an experience rich with reward that gives much more than it takes. Nothing is more primordial to humankind than the ocean, and keeping a bit of it near is a magical gift that is well worth the investment.

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Having a pet is an experiance that I think everyone should have. It
reaches us on a level that few other experiances can. But, not all of
us can handle the kind of committment that is required or we just don’t
want to. Whatever it is, it is your decision for your life!

The bond between humans and their pets has always been of the
greatest interest. I had read about it and heard people talk about it
but never experianced it for myself until a few years ago. The
experiance was deep and meaningful and made me realize that taking
physical and mental care of my pet was as important as taking care of
myself! Thinking that started me on a quest to find products that would
give my pet a long and happy life. And I then found that they respond
and that deepens the bond between us.

This is a happy catch 22! I
think a lot of it is the time spent together.

Bathe your pet in products
that will make their coats shiny and their skin healthy. Groom their
coats and feed them good food. And if they become sick, look after
them and give them the medicines they need. Personally, I like to use
natural and organic products, because I find they work really well, they
don’t introduce chemicals into the system that could have bad side
effects and in the long run they aren’t as expensive. There are also
natural medicines for them just like there is for humans. Just be
informed about what you are using and what it will do.

I am a health conscious individual that spends a lot of time researching
different ways of thinking. It is important to me to think outside the
box or the matrix if you will! I do not believe and accept everything I
see, read, or hear. Some things I have found to be truths for my own
life and those things I pass on to you. My maxims are “think for
yourself” and “listen to your whole self, body, mind and soul!” I have
found that if I do those two things I am always happy! The goal of my
web site is to supply those of you that have made the choice to go
natural with quality products!

http://www.naturallivingbychoice.com

Indeed, there are many things that both the dogs and the dog owners could have in common. For example, both dogs and dog owners could be prone to obesity if not regulating food intake and by not exercising.

In addition, dogs and humans may also acquire diseases that results from improper dietary regimen like diabetes, heart diseases, etc.

Moreover, the most amusing thing that both dogs and humans share is the fact that they are both vulnerable to allergies.

Sounds impossible? Think again.

Veterinary experts assert that dogs have allergies too. One of the primary signs of allergies is the itching of their skin. Their respiratory tract system can also be affected with allergies.

Normally, dogs will manifest symptoms of respiratory tract allergies like sneezing, wheezing, and coughing. Their nose and their eyes may also manifest a discharge just like humans do whenever they have colds or flu.

There are also allergies that may have an effect on their digestive system; hence, it may result to watery stools, diarrhea, or vomiting.

Experts say that almost 20% of the dogs in the United States suffer from several types of allergy. So, for people who want to know more about the different allergies that dogs acquire, here is a list of the most common allergies:

1. Allergies with flea

It is a well-known fact that dogs are usually infected with fleas. However, what most people do not know is that they can get allergies through these fleas, too.

Well, it is not the fleas that actually cause the allergic reactions in dogs but the flea’s saliva. Hence, it is important for the dog to undergo a skin allergy examination so as to determine if a particular dog is sensitive to flea saliva.

In the event that the dog is allergic to flea saliva, it would be better for the owner to implement a rigorous flea control or flea eradication treatment in order to lessen the allergic reactions. Though, it must be kept in mind that solutions that are used in flea control should be safe to the dogs.

2. Allergies pertaining to foods

Like humans, dogs get allergies from food as well. There are instances wherein dogs get allergies from foods that their system cannot tolerate, such as wheat, soy products, pork, beef, whey, fish, eggs, milk, corn, artificial sweeteners, and chemical preservatives that are placed in their food.

Moreover, dogs can get allergies in food that they have not tried before. So, the best way to combat this particular allergy problem is to feed the dog with the commercial dog foods more often instead of homemade products.

Some signs of allergic reactions to food in dogs are shaking of the head, scratching the ears, irritated skin, biting and licking at the rear feet, inflammations in the ear, sneezing, behavioral changes, vomiting, diarrhea, etc.

3. Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis is a known allergic skin disease in dogs. This usually caused by the hypersensitivity of the dog’s immune system to ordinary substances that can be found in the environment like molds or dust mites.

Usually, a dog is said to be suffering from atopic dermatitis when the dog begins to excessively lick and chew its paws, licking the abdomen and its rear feet.

Atopic dermatitis can be seen as a saliva staining found in the armpits, between the toes of the paws, and in the groin. In light-colored canines, atopic dermatitis can be seen as a red-brown stain found on the same parts that were mentioned.

4. Allergies resulting from bacteria

This is the most common cause of serious allergies in dogs. Generally, there are certain bacteria that thrive in the dog’s skin. This is known as the species of Staphylococcus bacteria. In most cases, this does not cause allergies in dogs. However, there are certain types of dogs that develop an allergy to it.

The most common symptom of this kind of allergy is hair loss along with the development of ringworm like marks in the dog’s skin. The areas where these marks appear usually get infected, hence, it is important to treat them with antibiotics.

Indeed, allergies are not for humans only. Allergies great affects almost 20% of the total population of dogs in the United States, and that is a pretty alarming number. Therefore, it is extremely important for dog owners to know these dog allergies so as to come up with some preventive measures at the first sign of the attack.

Jack Russell is a a long time dog fancier, visit his Dog Resources Blog and download his Free Dog Owners Handbook - it’s Dog Gone Good! www.daveshealthbuzz.com/dogcare/

Many people have begun the task of getting there dog or puppy into a dog training school. There are a lot of aspects that are gone over in dog training classes. Unfortunately, one part of dog training that is not gone over very well in dog training classes is chewing.

It is hard to go over a chewing problem in dog training classes because dogs often have nothing to chew on or destroy while in the class! If you are one of those people who are in dog training classes, but you still need help with chewing, please read on.

This type of dog training can be for dogs young and old. Many people find this part of dog training to be more common in puppies. But older dogs have been know to need this type of dog training because they love to chew things up while their owners are away!

To begin this type of dog training, you must first realize that all dogs chew. Dogs need to chew. So when you begin, make sure you have several things that are ok for your dog to chew on. Then begin your dog training by keeping all of your dogs chewing toys in one location.

This way, your dog will learn to associate this spot with his or her chew toys. You must do this in order for this type of dog training to work. Try to have the dog toys in a “toy box” for your dog.

During this dog training, never spank or hit your dog if you catch it chewing on something it is not allowed to. Instead, for effective dog training, praise your dog and pet it when it chews on what it is supposed to chew on.

It has been shown that dogs respond much better to positive praise and positive dog training. If the dog continues to chew on things that it shouldn’t, verbally reprimand it. Your tone of voice will be enough punishment and is the only punishment necessary for this kind of dog training.

Another method of dog training you can try is to put a taste deterrent on the items your dog shouldn’t chew. This Dog Training chew deterrent is called “bitter apple” and it is available at most pet stores.

These are the most effective means of dog training that will teach your dog not to chew on inappropriate things. If you follow all of these aspects, your dog training should go more smoothly.

Dog training can be a fun and rewarding experience…as long as all of your favorite things aren’t chewed up in the process! Keep calm and be patient to achieve good results.

About the Author: Amy Howells is an expert dog trainer who runs a website dedicated to teaching people how to train their dog or puppy in just 21 days. Visit http://www.dog-owner.net/training.htm for more info.

Source: www.isnare.com

In horse training or natural horsemanship, Approach is
nothing more than a technique or method used in helping your
horse to understand what it is you want him to do.

I feel it’s important to point out at this time that one of
the major reasons people fail to achieve excellence with
their horse is that they are not mentally, emotionally and
physically fit. The way to achieve this is by being
persistent and consistent in learning and practicing your
horse training / natural horsemanship skills. Remember,
It’s not your horses fault, it’s your responsibility to be
fit if you’re to achieve success and excellence with your
horse.

In talking about Approach or techniques, we’ll use some
examples to point out some approaches people take in
working with their horses, which are very different from
natural horsemanship.

Let’s talk a little about longeing… Most people longe
their horses to exercise them, but let’s look at what
happens when you do this. Your horse is going in
mindless circles usually circling to the left and will
certainly get stronger physically, but unfortunately, he
will also get mentally weaker because you are only
exercising his body and not his mind. It’s important
to exercise both his body and mind.

Now let’s look at lateral longeing. This is where we are
going to exercise both your horse’s body and mind. First,
what are the differences between longeing and lateral
longeing?

In normal longeing, the person is only exercising the horse
to take off the edge so the horse will be easier to ride.
I think it’s important to note that if your longeing your
horse 15 minutes to take off the edge eventually you will be
exercising him 30 minutes to take off the edge and as you
continue this regime he will become stronger and stronger
until you can no longer handle him.

In lateral longeing, you’re looking to develop a
communication system with your horse along with exercising
his body and mind, which will cause your hose to be
emotionally collected. This communication system is built
around 6 yields… Your horse going forward, backward,
left, right, up or down. These 6 yields work into a series
of maneuvers, which will exercise your horses mind and body.
By being persistent and using the 6 yields you will help
your horse to be mentally collected and instead of
increasing the time it takes to get your horse under control
you will decrease the time each day. By using lateral
longeing you can help your horse to become mentally
collected in a shorter period of time.

Remember that horses can do only 6 things, but they can do
them in combination… Move forward, backward, left, right,
up and down. Your goal should be to get your horse to go
forward, backward and sideways whenever you ask him. If you
can do this, you will become the Alpha horse in his
society.

When you teach your horse to go backwards you are also
teaching him to stop. The better he backs up the better he
stops. When you teach him to go sideways, you are also
teaching him to steer left or right. When moving right or
left you are simply moving his hindquarters or front
quarters or moving them both at the same time to move
sideways. Most horsemen will tell you that the better a
horse backs up and goes sideways the better he will do
everything else.

Lateral longeing is different from normal longeing in that
you are exercising your horses mind with his body following
naturally causing your horse to yield to you mentally.

Let’ take a quick look at Riding. What do most people do
after saddling and getting on their horse? They kick him to
go, rein him across the neck to turn and pull on him to
stop. Instead, why not get him mentally and emotionally
ready before we go riding? Why not put your horse through
the 6 yields? Yes, I know that takes some time, but is it worth it to you and your horse to be emotionally and mentally fit before you go riding?

After putting you horse through the 6 yields you’re now
ready to mount. After you’re mounted, it’s time to ask your
horse to move forward. Instead of kicking him to go why not
ask him to move by giving him a cue?

For example, if you want to move your horse forward, put 2
or 3 cues together, put them in order and be consistent with
them and your horse will eventually respond to the cues.
An example of this would be to 1. Squeeze both cheeks of
your buttocks tightly. If that won’t cause him to move
forward then progress to cue number 2. Genteelly squeeze
with your legs clear to your ankles and use a verbal cue
such as a cluck, kiss or smooch. If this still won’t get
him moving forward then progress to cue number 3. Give your
horse a spank, preferably closer to the center of the tail
head. This will start your horse to move straight. If you
spank right or left of center, you will cause your horse to
move off to the left or right.

When using cues remember to start the cue with light
pressure and increasing the pressure, (the pressure should
only be for a few seconds before moving on to the next cue)
and if there is no response move on to the next cue until
you get the desired response. With practice and
consistency, your hose will learn to move off the pressure
(cue) at the slightest squeeze of your buttocks or legs,
whichever you decided to use as your cue.

This article is getting long so I will briefly touch on
stopping your horse. There are two ways to stop your horse,
pulling back on the reins which most people use (the horse
can get wise, tuck his chin and keep running) or you can
bend your horses neck around with one rein and cause him to
stop. If you can bend his neck to the right and stop his
right side then his left side is probably not going to run
off and vise versa.

I do not recommend letting or allowing your horse to stop on
his own; if you allow this behavior, you will eventually
have problems with keeping your horse moving. You only want
your horse to stop after preparing him with a cue to stop
and then giving him the cue to stop. A cue might be, you
bringing down your energy by putting both hands on your
thighs, completely relax and look down at your tummy, to sum
it up, quit riding. Eventually your horse figures out that
you have stopped riding and he will stop. Remember, you
have to be consistent and persistent, it is not going to
happen over night, but eventually your horse will figure out
the cues and you will get the desired response. One other
thing, make sure you keep your horse straight. This will
cause him to stop. Don’t worry about him not stopping as
quickly as you like as long as he comes to a stop. As I
said before it takes time to get the desired response.

Good Luck and have fun with your horse!

This article is brought to you by Perfect Horse Gifts

If you like this article and would like to learn more
or would like to send it to a friend, please feel free
to do so. You can subscribe at: Perfect Horse
Gifts or The
Roundup

In the next article, we will discuss Patients… Be
patient/tolerant, take the time do it right and you
won’t have to go back and do it again and again.
Helping your horse to understand what it is you want
him to do.

Copyright © Mike Gorzalka All Rights Reserved Worldwide

*You have permission to publish this article*
electronically, in print, in your ebook or on your web
site, free of charge, as long as the content of this
article is not changed in any way and the author
bylines are included.

If you choose to publish this article, I would
appreciate a Quick e-mail letting me know where it
will Be published.
Mike@perfect-horse-gifts.com

*DISCLAIMER*: The information contained in this article
is of my personal opinions and beliefs and should not
be taken as anything more.

About The Author:

Mike Gorzalka has spent the better part of his life
around horses. His dad, Mike Sr., taught him the
importance of understanding the horse and how to use a
firm, but kinder and gentler approach to helping horses
understand what it is we humans are trying to
communicate.

If you are a frequent traveler and animal owner, you are probably aware that there
are pet friendly motels that you can bring your dog or cat to while you are on the
road. If you hate leaving your pets at a boarding shelter while you are traveling, you
would be wise to find pet hotels along your route so that your beloved family
members can stay with you. Many dog friendly hotels allow canines up to a certain
weight with no extra deposit. Some pet friendly motels do require a deposit, and
larger pets and reptiles are not allowed.

Before you book your rooms, check that your pet friendly motels are accepting
pets matching the weight of your animal. Some pet hotels will require that you keep
the animal in a cage in your room, and most dog friendly hotels insist that your
canine is kept on a leash at all times when it is outside of your room. There are
many websites that are specialize in pet friendly hotel or condo rentals, with easy to
use guides to help you to find the best lodging that is both convenient for you and
comfortable for your animals.

If you plan to be away for long periods of time, you might reconsider bringing
along your animal to pet friendly motels. Some animals do better at home with a
sitter or in a boarding facility than traveling around to various pet hotels. When you
reserve a room at dog friendly hotels, you will want to ask what the policies are
regarding animals, and whether there is a deposit. Most overnight lodging
establishments will always allow seeing-eye or service dogs no matter what their pet
policies are. The more research that you do on the lodging options for your vacation
or travel destination, the more comfortable your pet will be on the road. Also, if you
are travelling by plane, don’t forget to check with the airlines about their pet
policies. Many airlines require larger dogs to be in a cage in the checked luggage
section of the plane and also need to see proof of animal licenses, especially when
travelling to a foreign country. Smaller dogs and cats can sometimes be carried on
to the plane in a pet carrier if the carrier is small enough to fit under the plane’s
seat back.

When you are preparing to leave for your pet friendly hotel, be sure to pack along
some portable pet bowls and enough food and water supply for your pet to last for
the duration of your trip. You might also want to bring a small blanket or toy from
home to remind your pet of the scents of their home. If you are driving to your
destination, you might want to search for dog parks along your route or plan for
stops to walk your dog for at least 30 minutes to release their energy. If you are
travelling with a cat, consider bringing a portable litter box that your cat can use on
the road or in your hotel room. Most importantly, be sure your pets are secure in
your vehicle and won’t pose a hazard to the driver.

J.J. Nielson is a successful graphic artist and published internet author. She has
worked closely with prominent dog behaviorists and leads her own pack of animals at
home.

For more pet resources and information, visit our site at www.best-pet-supply-online.com

Key Facts:

Size: There are three sizes: standard, miniature and toy
Height: Standard - Over 38 cm (15 in) Miniature - 28-38 cm (11-15 in)
Toy - Under 28 cm (11 in)
Weight: Standard - 22 kg (49 lb) Miniature - 12 kg (26 lb)
Toy - 7 kg (15 lb)
Life Span: 16 years
Grooming: Demanding
Exercise: Medium
Feeding: Straightforward
Temperament: Sparky & cheerful
Country of Origin: France
AKC Group: Toy & Non-Sporting
Other Names: Caniche, Barbone

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Elegant, finely chiselled and proud.
Colour: Black, silver, blue, white or cream with black pigmentation. Or brown and liver and matching pigmentation.
Coat: Frizzy, dense, fine, woolly and harsh in texture. The coat can be clipped to suit different tastes.
Tail: Set high, commonly docked and carried away from the body at a slight angle.
Ears: Set low, long, wide and hanging close to the head. Covered in long, wavy hair.
Body: The body is longer than the height and the shoulders are muscular and sloping. The back is short and slightly hollowed behind the withers. The ribs should be rounded with a deep chest. The loin is muscular and broad and the croup is rounded.

Temperament:
Even-tempered, fun-loving, lively and intelligent. Poodles are easily trained and quickly learn to perform tricks. They bond closely to their family and can be acutely sensitive to their owners mood. This breed is trouble-free in terms of getting along with other dogs, pets, strangers and children. They make delightful companions with their intelligence and adaptability. This breed should not be kept in a yard alone as they thrive on companionship and attention and their natural spirit can be destroyed if deprived of this.

Grooming:
Poodles that are being shown need to be clipped according to the breed style, which takes considerable skill and knowledge and is usually best left to a professional groomer. Poodles that are kept as pets are commonly trimmed short, leaving the hair longer on the head, the ears and legs. If these dogs are left untrimmed the harsh-textured coats will grow vastly in length. The teeth need to be checked for tartar and the ears should be kept clean. The advantage of these dogs is that they don’t shed hair. The coat on a Poodle can be washed quite often.

Exercise:
Poodles live happily in flats or small apartments as they don’t demand a great deal of exercise. They still need some exercise outside of the home such as walks to the park. These dogs generally excel in obedience classes.

History:
Poodles are believed to have originated from the old Spanish water dogs. They got their name from the German word ‘pudeln’ which means to splash in the water. This breed were excellent retrievers of injured water birds and ducks. A smaller variety was produced later which became the forerunner of the Miniature version we know today. Hunters shaved off most of the hair on the hindquarters to help these dogs perform better in water. They left the hair on the chest and front parts of the body for warmth and sections of hair on the leg joints for protection against injury. The custom of tying a bright ribbon on the topknot, was for identification of their dogs when at work retrieving. These customs have been maintained over the years for Poodles being shown today.

Additional Comments:

Poodles are regarded as one of the most difficult breed-standard patterns to achieve (if not the most difficult).
This breed is commonly recommended for people who are allergic to dog hair or dust as the Poodle does not shed any hair.
The Poodle is known for it’s intelligence and can be taught a variety of skills from water-retrieving to circus tricks. They appear to enjoy performing with the praise and laughter that it brings.
Different clips for Poodles include: lamb clip, lion clip, puppy clip and continental clip. The puppy clip is always popular for those owners who aren’t showing their dogs.

About the Author

This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/poodle/